Cameras

If you’ve always hungered for a DSLR and more importantly, a Nikon DSLR, but never had ‘the ready’ to fill your ambition The could be your opportunity.

It’s hard to quantify the allure of the breed but undeniable is the bloodline, the technical excellence and innovative achievements of Nikon cameras and lenses. Priced just above point-and-shoot fixed lens digicams and well beneath the semi pro and full pro model DSLRs, the D3000 is an excellent pathway to the higher quality such a camera can deliver.

Nikon D3000 DSLR Features

In the hand, the camera is delightfully compact, light and to the novice’s eye ‘unsplattered’ by intimidating external controls. You view via an optical turret viewfinder or the rear 7.6cm LCD screen.

The review camera was supplied with the f3.5/18-55mm VR lens that handles hand-induced vibration. With this lens attached the gear weighs just under a kilo no penalty in my book.

Of course, there are a few issues when you deal with a Nikon DSLR: image stability is provided by the lens’ internal optics, and some of the attractively-priced kit lenses usually offered with the D3000 do not provide this.

With 10.2 million pixels on its CCD the camera can shoot a maximum 3872 2592 pixel image; when printed this accounts for a 33 22cm output at 300 dpi.

The mode dial has settings for auto, Program AE, aperture and shutter priority as well as manual exposure plus a number of scene modes (landscape, sports, portraits etc).

The built in flash can be useful especially as a ‘fill’ for portraits; the more adventurous can also experiment with light trails thanks to the flash’s ability to sync with the rear shutter curtain.

And note: DSLRs at this level have a macro mode, not available on the upper level reflex cameras. So, if you’re into ECUs (extra close-ups) of bugs and beetles, a camera like the D3000 is ideal.

Fire up the camera and the first thing you see is the LCD display confirming that the CCD is being cleaned pre-shoot; post-shoot, cut the power and the camera cleans the sensor again. With an interchangeable lens camera, this function is important, eradicating dust that may enter when you switch lenses.

Right from the start the beginner can feel at home, thanks to the Guide, selectable from the mode dial and shown on the LCD display. This will hold your hand through the various shooting modes and even help you move through some of the more advanced techniques. As well as this, settings made with Guide mode can even be tweaked before making the shot.

There is a Scene Recognition System that optimises exposure, white balance and autofocus; continuous shooting can be made at up to 3 fps and an 11-point selectable autofocus scheme tracks focus in any of four modes (static or moving subjects, auto area and 3D tracking).

The D3000’s photo editing functions give you in-camera retouching, and here again is a Tilt-Shift mode that I first encountered in the Ricoh CX2 it creates a miniature mode effect from normal shots. Cute.

The ISO range runs from 100 to 3200.

Optimum ISO at 100.

Still very clean at ISO 400.

Minimal noise at ISO 800.

Noise becoming evident at ISO 1600 but still useable.

Hitting its straps at ISO 3200 this is only when you really have to!

A movie house foyer, shot at ISO 3200 with the right subject, quite a useable setting. Detail in the picture covers the noise.

Photography at this level lets you into the exalted arena of RAW capture, where you can manipulate your shots to a degree not achievable with JPEG shooting. However, the D3000 will still shoot JPEGs, if you sometimes need only snapshot quality.

Digging around the manual I found a terrific mode that can shoot stop motion clips from a series of stills. You can make short video sequences from puppets or even hand-drawn animation that will run successfully on an SD TV set at 640 480 pixel res or you can even smaller create clips for use on the Web. Magic!

Comment

A great piece of kit. Beginners star here!

Why you would buy the D3000: attractive price for a DSLR; entree to Nikon system and lenses; RAW capture.

Why you wouldn’t: no Live View; no video capture (but you can make a stop motion movie from still shots!); low resolution LCD.

I figure the D3000 is a perfect entry-level camera, with some modes (like stop motion movies) that will give you a lot of fun, without the need for a lot of techy knowledge. Good one Nikon!

Nikon D3000 Specifications

Image Sensor: 10.2 million effective pixels.
Metering: Matrix and centre-weighted metering, spot.
Effective Sensor Size: 23.6 15.8mm CCD.
35 SLR Lens Factor: 1:5x.
Compatible lenses: Nikkor AF-S and AF-I.
Exposure Modes: Auto, Program AE, shutter and aperture priority, manual.
Shutter Speed: 30 to 1/4000 second, Bulb. Flash sync: 1/200.
Memory: SD/SDHC cards.
Image Sizes (pixels): 3872 2592, 2896 1944, 1936 1296.
Viewfinders: Optical pentamirror, 7.6cm LCD (230,000 pixels).
File Formats: RAW, RAW+JPEG.
Colour Space: Adobe RGB, sRGB.
ISO Sensitivity: Auto, 100 to 3200.
Interface: USB 2.0, AV, DC input.
Power: Rechargeable lithium ion battery, AC adaptor.
Dimensions: 126 97×64 WHDmm.
Weight: Approx. 485 g (body only).
Price: At Amazon the Nikon D3000 is or .

Body only: $799. With Nikkor f3.5/18-55mm VR lens: $949.

digital-photography-school.com

Ok, so a lot of us are amateur photographers, but there’s really no need to look like a complete amateur when we pick up and point our SLR or DSLR to get a shot. Holding your SLR properly, while not making it totally obvious that you are not a pro, also has a lot of advantages. Here’s what you need to know.

For starters, holding a camera at both sides of the body like the picture below is usually a dead give away that you don’t know what you are doing.

The problem with this grip is that you haven’t really got maximum control of the movement of your equipment and so problems such as blurred photos due to shaking are going to crop up. The slower your shutter speed, the more pronounced these negative effects are going to be.

Secondly, you don’t have instant access to the capabilities of your SLR or DSLR because you have to remove your left hand to use the controls on your lens. This is not a great state of affairs.

Now, while you will have a hard time eliminating camera shake altogether with solwer shots while you are hand-holding your camera, there are a few things you can do to minimise the problem and most of the time, it won’t be any problem whatsoever.

The widely-regarded best way to hold your SLR is to grip the lens with your left hand and use your right hand for the body controls (which are primarily positioned on most SLRs to be most accessible using this grip).

Here is the correct way to hold your SLR:

And here is a great little Youtube demonstration:

Other resources on how to hold a camera:

• Hold Your Camera on an Angle
• How to Hold Your Camera and Camera Phone for Better Results

lightstalking.com

Starting a career in photography can be an exciting, exhilarating move. Most photographers have freedom unlike any other traditional job and can book appointments as frequently as they want. Amateur photographers, that is to say those who don’t get compensated for shooting, usually do so because they enjoy hobby. Regardless of where you stand, there will be times when you need to decline an offer for work. Here are some examples of when and why you shouldn’t say yes to an offer.

Photo by Hamad AL-Mohannna

Professional Photographers

When you are a professional, it’s your business, even if only part time, you generate part of your income from shooting. This is an important fact that will come into play now.

Weddings that you are invited to as a guest and asked to shoot, probably a good idea to say no. I’m often asked this, even though I’m not a wedding photographer. If you invite me to your wedding, let me be a guest! I want to enjoy and remember the day, not work the event. It’s OK to decline shooting friends and family weddings and events.

Holidays are important, most people enjoy spending them with friends and family. If you are offered to shoot a job on July 4th (for American’s) or a wedding on New Year’s Eve, think about how that will impact your personal and social life. Do you want to work that holiday for strangers or spend it with people you care about?

Spec work, short for speculation, implies shooting something that a client might want to buy. Know your rates and have them agree prior to shooting. Rarely does working on spec ever benefit the photographer.

Trade work in exchange for pay. As a photographer who offers a service, you’ll often find clients who will offer you work in trade, rather than straight pay. Sometimes this isn’t a bad idea, but remember that trade doesn’t pay your bills.

Travel compensation is not payment for services rendered. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve heard, If we pay for you to come to (insert fancy destination on the beach here), could you shoot our wedding? If they aren’t willing to pay for your services too, it’s probably a good idea to say no.

Working outside your normal area of expertise. I am not a landscape photographer, nor am I a wedding photographer. So far in 2010 I’ve turned down four wedding jobs because it’s simply not an area I’m great at. I told one person who found me through a mutual friend that I could provide good photography, but they deserve great photography. They completely understood.

Amateur Photographers

If photography is your hobby, and you do it because you love it, that should be the only reason you do it. Don’t get lured in by offers that sound too good to be true or deviate from your joy of photography.

Over your head jobs should be passed on. If you are asked to shoot something that you know you can’t handle, suggest they hire a professional.

When the line blurs between a fun hobby and a time exhausting job, turn the job down. Photography is a hobby, a passion, a form of expression. When it stops being fun, consider saying no.

Your goal is to become a professional shooter, so you’re working towards making that happen. Don’t represent yourself as one until you know the quality and expertise is on par with what clients should expect. If you are honest and upfront and decline a job that is out of your scope, you could very well get another job by the same client who respected your choice to not provide sub-par quality work.

All Photographers

Paid work or not, professional or amateur, time is a valuable commodity. Don’t take on more jobs then you can actually do, and don’t forget to factor in post processing times and commuting. I generally factor in about 30-45 minutes of post processing time for every hour of shooting time I do. There are exceptions to this, but that’s my general rule of thumb. Don’t take every offer because you want to satisfy every customer, friend or family member, you won’t be able to.

lightstalking.com